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“The beard is the richest accessory of women.”

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– Martin Luther

Hair additionally is controversial. And for African American women, it is a adventure unto itself about heritage, culture, bullwork and abode in American society.

Nancy Nelson, administrator of Africana apprenticeship studies at Eastern Washington University, teaches a two-credit academy advance she developed, alleged “Culture Study: African American Women and Hair,” which is actuality offered Saturday and abutting Saturday on the EWU campus in Cheney.

If this year is annihilation like the antecedent several years, chat will be, at the actual least, animated.

“The aboriginal affair to apperceive is that beard is very, actual cogent in African culture,” Nelson said. “In Africa, abounding accept that back our beard is afterpiece to heaven than the blow of our bodies, airy letters arise to the anatomy through the hair, which allegation be apple-pie and well-groomed.”

In the Wolof ability in Senegal, adolescent girls’ active are baldheaded to announce that they are not yet mature. Back they arise of age, alone afresh do they abound their beard out, Nelson said.

When Africans were captured and enslaved, all active were shaved, not for ache control, as was the official acumen stated, Nelson said, but to mentally adapt them for slavery.

“It was to accomplish anybody the same,” she said. “Royalty, warriors, affiliated women and others all wore their beard differently, but with their active shaved, that all disappeared.”

Other kinds of adverse and symbols of accepting came to the ahead during bullwork in America, Nelson continued. Abode disciplinarian were accustomed added time to assignment with their beard so they could be added “presentable” and imitate hairstyles of their bondservant owners. But acreage disciplinarian had no time to allot to their beard nor did they accept adapted combs for it, so all they could do was blanket it in rags.

Many birth of bullwork were of alloyed race, Nelson noted, and a South African-style amusing chic arrangement developed – white, colored/mulatto and black.

It was a curve that African Americans bought into as well, Nelson said, and they alike activated the “comb test” themselves in which a fine-tooth adjust had to be able to canyon calmly through people’s beard in adjustment for them to be accepted to the “colored” abbey or amusing club.

Significant differences abide amid African beard and Caucasian beard that abounding white Americans are not acquainted of, above the coarser arrangement and the attributes of the curl.

First, because of ancestral mixing, not all African American beard is the same. “I don’t accept acceptable atramentous beard myself,” Nelson said, who wears her beard adequately anxiously cropped.

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Second, African American beard does not aftermath oil, which “is why we accept to put oil on our hair,” Nelson said. “And that agency we do not ablution our beard every day. If I did that, my beard would breach off.”

Third, African American beard requires a lot of absorption to advance appropriately and in acceptable health.

Nelson said that back her beard was longer, she bare 90 account to booty affliction of it afore activity out – including putting on oil, dehydration the hair, application a straightener and afresh crimper it. If she didn’t do that, her beard would be badly dry and kinky. Years ago back she wore an Afro style, she put it up in 19 braids at night, best it out in the morning, aflame it in the shower, best it out afresh and afresh shaped it.

“It was a lot of work,” she remembers.

Fourth, it is culturally important to African Americans that their beard be styled – whether in locks (dreadlocks), twists, weaves, braids (plaiting) or any added style.

“And not alone does it allegation to be styled,” Nelson added, but “it additionally needs to be styled correctly. If we see a little babe whose beard is consistently not anxiously abounding to, we see it as a assurance that something’s amiss at home.”

Nelson, who gives talks frequently to amusing workers, agencies and others in the association apropos a array of African American cultural and amusing matters, recalled a contempo affair at the Spokane Juvenile Detention Center in which a allegation of best analysis of African American girls was fabricated because they were accustomed to put oil in their hair. Another case complex African American girls acting out in a accumulation home because of the abode aphorism beneath which all residents’ beard had to be done daily.

“Many decisions are fabricated based on examination affairs through the eyes of one culture, but we allegation to be across-the-board and attending at the needs of the citizenry who we serve – including accouterment beard picks, not fine-tooth combs, for African American girls in accumulation homes,” said Nelson, who serves on the Spokane Juvenile Detention Center’s Ancestral Disproportionality Board.

At EWU, Nelson has developed a ability adviser to advice African American acceptance locate beard salons, hair-care articles and added casework in Cheney and Spokane that are geared to their specific needs.

In her accessible chic at EWU, Nelson will altercate the weaves, wigs and relaxers that media stars such as Oprah Winfrey, Beyonce and Halle Berry arise to use.

“That accountable consistently brings out a lot of discussion, including whether these stars or any African American women in any affectionate of business ambience would do as able-bodied if they wore their beard in added acceptable or accustomed styles,” she said.

Hair is beautiful, but it’s not as simple as it looks, Nelson concludes, “neither in appearance nor in significance. For African Americans, it is a ample allotment of our story, our heritage, our culture.”

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