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'Everything aches, my head, my arms, alike my heart.' But he is able abundant to feel angry. 'We never had this blazon of ache and now we're accepting it,' he says. (Haiti aftermost had clera 100 years ago.) 'This poor country suldn't be the one that ends up with this affectionate of disease, we don't accept any medication, we don't accept lots of things.' He accouterment in his bed. 'We've already had a tragedy.'

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Because, of course, clera is abandoned allotment of what has happened. Journal acclimated to be a carpenter w fabricated gates and doorframes. But on January 12 aftermost year a 7.0-magnitude convulsion addled about 15 afar west of Port-au-Prince, killing 230,000. Journal's abode was destroyed, three ociates of his continued ancestors were killed, and for the accomplished year he has been active in a chiffon apartment on a adjacent affected in four acreage of airy poverty.

'You can't aculate apple-pie and you can't stop bodies stealing. They breach off the artificial bedding and abduct whatever you have.'

This ascertainable bent hangs over the unit. Look up and you see the half-collapsed belfry of a soap branch now closed off by rubble. It is ancd in La Piste, a makeshift burghal of 50,000 convulsion survivors, w beddy-bye one on top of the added in cupboard-sized shacks fabricated from dejected tarp roofs and corrugated-tin and agenda walls. Aback it rains, parents accept to absorb the night continuing up, captivation their children, because it is too wet to sit on the floor.

Walking through the chlorine footbath at the alpha of the emblage feels like entering a abode of bad luck in a appealing concentrated form. Eight added patients, already agape alongside by the contest of a year ago, lie on affected beds, absorbed to drips.

Christelle Privat, four, hangs limply as her ancestor lds her over a bucket. Jocelyn Chery, 25, a labourer, bought an ice chrism from a artery bell-ringer for a dollar. 'That night my abdomen sed boiling.' He spent the night alfresco his apartment because he didn't appee his three accouchement to get sick.

Cherimene Laguerre, 46, the Red Cross nurse, is not surprised. 'After January 12, we knew that commodity bad would happen,' she says. 'We've been accepting accessible for it. Imagine the bearings these bodies animate in. We knew commodity like this was activity to happen.'

December 6 Red Cross Abject Camp, Port-au-Prince A year ago, the half-built Hilton Hotel was me to 400 aid workers from the Red Cross. Today there are still 156 sleeping in tents (one was apathetic by a tarantula aftermost week) and animate in ofs with improvised tarpaulin floors.

More than 200 others accept confused off the affected to animate in Port-au-Prince. This includes a 16-strong aggregation from the British Red Cross, w animate abaft a attentive ambit fence, in a residential neighbourod, 45 minutes' drive from abject camp. And that's aloof the Red Cross. There are about 900 NGOs animate here. It is a accoutrement that tends to advance a burghal still beneath siege.

In the altruistic world, there is a ritual acknowledgment to a disaster. Aback an convulsion strikes, emergency teams are deployed. They agilely locate survivors and address allegation aback to managers w draw abstracts about the array of advice required: food, affable equipment, lavatories, shelter.

Three to six months afterwards the emergency appearance accouterment to 'early recovery', aback survivors are confused into acting mes (typically board huts); and jobs for banknote are offered. By nine months 'recovery teams' are attractive at abiding solutions: stronger uses, training, rebuilding businesses. It is a progression of phases based on an advancement aisle of activity accepting better. But the rituals of adversity abatement accept rarely been chaotic so badly as they accept in Haiti.

'This is actual unusual,' admits Marcel Fortier, the arch of appointment for the All-embracing Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies (IFRC). Fortier, a French Canadian w has formed for the Red Cross for 30 years, is a adept of such disasters as the tsunami (2004), which asleep added than 200,000 people, and the Bangladesh cyclone (2007) which asleep 130,000 people. 'To accept this affected actuality so long, and to accept so abounding bodies animate actuality still, there has not been a bearings like this.'

A charismatic, worn-faced man in his backward fifties in khakis and a T-shirt, w sometimes sounds ascetic and sometimes chuckles as he speaks, Fortier has been arch of abject affected for 10 months.

'This is the aboriginal time we accept faced such a circuitous situation,' he says, adver the affidavit why: the convulse hit a basic burghal with a poor abridgement – Haiti was already the atomic country in the hemisphere, with boundless illiteracy, aerial baby mortality, low activity expectancy, and 20-30 years of non-investment. 'The spitals were not in acceptable appearance before, nor the roads, water, debris collection…'

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Thirty per cent of Haiti's accessible agents died in the convulsion and 15 admiral barrio were destroyed, including the admirable old Admiral of Justice, abreast the Civic Palace. Fortier afresh had a affair with a actual chief official from the Admiral of Foreign Affairs in a corridor. 'So it doesn't advice facilitate recovery, aback not abandoned the government, but added official accouterment is not in abundant shape.'

Plus, Haiti is a country with approved periods of discontent, which in some genitalia of the community, for periods alignment from a few urs to a few days, can amplify out of control. 'It was, and still is, unstable,' Fortier says. 'When you accept 11,000 aggressive beneath the UN umbrella, you are anxiously un-stable.'

And on top of it all, of course, there accept been added emergencies. The British Red Cross able for Blow Tomas in October by acclimation 4,000 anatomy bags. The hurricane, fortunately, was not as astringent as predicted. But the anatomy accoutrements are now actuality acclimated for the clera epidemic, which hit the basic at the alpha of November. The aftereffect is that the Red Cross is in emergency mode, aboriginal accretion and recovery, all at the aforementioned time.

There are some baby signs of progress. Best of the bodies are gone, addle beneath the bits or loaded on a dump barter and taken to a aculation burying arena alfresco town, abreast the sea. The city's streets are already afresh active with tiny grocery stalls, one-chair beautician sps, mobile-pne charging stations.

A hair-weave arrest in La Piste hints at a ertive bound frivolity. And I was admiring to apprehend account of Stanley Clermont, 24, a university apprentice wm I interviewed for an commodity in this annual three weeks afterwards the earthquake, aback he was active alfresco with his ancestors beneath blankets. At the time he had no achievement of finishing his bulk as his university had collapsed, but I was told that he had managed to leave the country and is now belief at the University of Miami.

Otherwise the burghal seemed spectacularly depressed. The government's admiral of accessible works, busline and communications has adjourned about every architecture in the city, and formed its advanced bank with a green, chicken or red arrangement with the brand MTPTC. Blooming bureau you can abide to ignment or animate in the building; yellow, you may access but the architecture is unsafe; red bureau actual danger. Red stencils dominate.

More than a amateur bodies still animate in 1,277 camps. Addition amateur animate in brief shelters on the ancillary of the road, or roundabouts, colonising any amplitude they are able to. In the accomplished year La Piste affected has broadcast from 10,000 to 50,000 (the aforementioned admeasurement as Brentwood or Macclesfield) and is acclaimed for gangs and stabbings.

I had been in La Piste for abandoned a abbreviate time afore I heard about a 23-year-old man w was asleep afterwards accepting bent in battery from an M-16 burglarize as he beyond the street. We're abreast Cité Soleil; arguments actuality tend to metamorpse actual bound into a sot-off. 'Bullets don't accept eyes,' one of the asleep man's accompany says. One baby boy died of clera at the affected afresh because his parents were too afraid to airing to the medical emblage at night. Aback they took him the aing day it was too late.

The Civic Palace, the advantageously white, domed cake of the presidential residency, and a almighty attribute for abounding Haitians, has burst still added into the ground. And the aboveboard opposite, which acclimated to be blooming and admirable with approach copse and a bronze of Haiti's founding revolutionary, Toussaint Louverture, is now active by 2,800 refugees, w face the anion of no jobs and the adamantine and actual arresting actuality that they are never activity me. i'm as f***ed as you are, reads the T-shirt of one inhabitant.

Government admiral and the Interim Haiti Accretion Agency all allocution about abiding decentralisation as a drive to move some of the citizenry out of Port-au-Prince. (The aen is simple: there isn't abundant room, abnormally now landlords are accomplishment their land.) An ur's drive arctic is Coraille, a affected in the hills that uses 50,000 refugees, abounding confused from the city's golf advance in Delmas 48 (the burghal is disconnected into 'Delmas' or zones). The 'Golf' camp, is still me to about 35,000 and is managed by Sean Penn, the Hollywood actor, through his alms JP. Penn isted some of the clearing out of the city.

Exeline Belcombe, 24, is a accompanist and chef w formed for Penn in Delmas 48 and now lives at the camp. 'Every time addition confused actuality to Coraille, it was my albatross to breach bottomward their apartment [on the Golf camp], to stop anyone abroad from affective in.' She says she prefers it actuality because there is added e; she has a job for six canicule sponsored by Apple Vision, digging arising cs (fee: $40) and will anon move from her covering into a anew congenital board hut which is chastening for three years.

Her abandoned complaint is that there are 'no trees; abandoned a agglomeration of mountains'. The affected absolutely looks apple-pie and industrious. Some tents alike accept 'gardens' with rows of maize and decoratively abiding stones. The downside, of course, is the ignment and abode are provided by NGOs, and what happens aback they leave? 'It is not a acceptable solution,' says David Monier, the arch of British Red Cross, Haiti. 'What is activity to appear to these people, w are out of boondocks with no transport?'

Most of the three abode of a amateur bodies w fled the basic gluttonous aliment and apartment accept returned, according to advice from Digicel, the country's better mobile-pne company, which watches the demographic movements of its users. Mostly it is because Port-au-Prince is one of the abandoned places area a Haitian ability acquisition work.

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Within a year of the Asian tsunami, the Red Cross had congenital 22,000 acting mes in Indonesia, the Males and Sri Lanka. 'Bang, bang, one afterwards the other,' Fortier says. In Port-au-Prince they accept so far congenital 2,515 (target: 30,000). Why? Acreage is a above issue, he replies. Or rather, there is land, but the acreage is active by rubble. Abandoned 10 per cent of the bits has been removed: 20 amateur cubic metres remain. 'When you abolish that, you accept the land.'

He picks up a pen and ss to jot abstracts on a allotment of paper. 'OK, a barter will booty about bristles cubic metres, so bisect the absolute by bristles and you accept four amateur barter journeys. Say you accept about 500 trucks and you put them in boondocks and that they do, due to the traffic, three trips a day. That's 7,500 cubic metres a day. Let's say they ignment seven canicule a week." He tosses his pen on the table. 'Seven years at atomic to get rid of the rubble.' And there is no agile of trucks.

I altercate this, via email, with a friend, a above banker, aback in London, and he says, 'I apperceive JCB-type accessories is sitting bare in Guadeloupe and Martinique because all architecture projects broiled up with the recession (the owners accept defaulted to the banks), so the banks could put them to use by carrying them for acting use to Haiti.' But it's not so simple. 'You accept to accept the political will to do that,' David Monier says. 'It has to be absitively by the government and the government, appealing abundant like the blow of the country, is disturbing to move forward.'

Lavatorie the aforementioned problem. The British Red Cross has congenital 300 lavatories in two camps. But bisected the camps still don't accept any lavatories at all. 'We accept the accommodation to body them,' explains Chris Brewer, the sanitation aggregation baton for British Red Cross, 'but we accept a auctioning problem.' By this he bureau lorries to 'de-sludge' the lavatories and 'dumpsites' to actuate of the contents. There is one dumpsite in Port-au-Prince. 'In Sri Lanka afterwards the tsunami we had lots of dumpsites, but actuality there is an affair with the land.'

There is allocution of $1.5 billion from the all-embracing ociation for accretion projects, but the affairs are not yet completed and the money is not yet available. In the meantime, the Red Cross is still trucking 2.5 amateur litres of baptize a day – 40 per cent of the capital's baptize – at a bulk of $400,000 a month. 'That is a lot of trucks,' Fortier acknowledges. 'Normally we do not barter baptize [one year on] because there is no charge to, but there is no added baptize arrangement in the country. You cannot let bodies go after apple-pie water, or if you do, you will see the consequences. You will accept a above clera crisis in the camps.'

He pauses to angular advanced in his seat. 'What we accept done so far is we accept kept bodies animate and we accept ensured that they advance a ertive akin of animal dignity.' He smiles wryly. 'But I apperceive that is not necessarily a big story, to aculate bodies alive.'

December 6 Delmas 19, Port-au-Prince On August 19, at a time aback Automeca affected was me to 14,000, a bounded freelder absitively he capital his acreage back. Ten tusand had to leave. And as 70 per cent were exiles from Delmas 19, there has been a drive anytime aback to animate them aback me.

Even afore the earthquake, Delmas 19 was a ghetto of arbitrary uses, claustropbic 3ft-wide streets and accessible drains. A few had lavatories, but best acclimated a anteroom on the bridge, with a aperture cut through the stonework so bodies could acquittal anon into the arising aqueduct below. The convulsion not abandoned burst the uses, it burst the pipes, so every time it rained, the arising aqueduct would overflow and the citizenry begin themselves knee-deep in faeces and .

Clearly accepting bodies aback to Delmas 19 was never activity to be an accessible sell. But things accept afflicted in the accomplished two months. There are now two lavatories (and affairs for more); debris bins, a apple-pie arising aqueduct austere by 100 bounded volunteers, and the complete of sawing copse as bodies try to clean their lives.

I'm actuality with my translator, Nadia François, 38, a 6ft Amazon, w looks like an added from the 1970s blur Shaft: afro, dejected eyeshadow, bandage earrings; and she speaks in the cadences of addition w went to academy in Miami – she lived there with her mother for 15 years – giving her translations a able edge. (What do you like doing, Nadia? 'Clubbing.')

We accommodated Banette Janvier, 23, w lives in a two-room abode with six people: mother, brother, sister and her children. They acclimated to animate on Automeca, which she says was one allotment affectionate to two genitalia alarming with 'crazy bodies disturbing up your blankets'. She knew the freelder was activity to bandy them off, aback commodity rather arresting happened: the Red Cross appear that every ancestors in the affected was to get $250, no strings attached. This is a cogent bulk in a country area packs of spaghetti bulk 50 cents and artery sellers accomplish about $2 a day. 'She didn't accept it was for real,' François says.

The Red Cross has implemented agnate banknote programmes in Indonesia and Sri Lanka. But this is the aboriginal time the grants accept been issued via adaptable pne. The grants draw aloft British donations (but not exclusively: money is additionally acclimated for sanitation work). The way it formed was that the Red Cross got a annals of every ancestors on the affected – some 4,000 – from the All-embracing Organisation of Migration, gave anniversary an ID card, and again beatific them a argument bulletin cogent them area to go to aggregate the $250.

'It's abolitionist but it's empowering,' Ruth Aggiss, w helped alike the project, says. 'It gives them the best to absorb it on what they want.' Things such as rent, apprenticeship or electricity, which are all actual costly. As are funerals, and with so abounding asleep defective to be buried, abounding bodies are in debt.

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Janvier spent her money on rent. But Haiti is not a abode of advisedly blessed endings. Janvier says it is acceptable actuality in a abode because she doesn't accept to anguish about her autrization actuality stolen. But the downside is that her mother can't sleep. She credibility to abysmal cracks in the walls, and to area the beam appears to be alive abroad from the wall. 'She says her mum sleeps with one eye open,' François reports, 'and annihilation that all-overs the bed, she's cerebration it's the earthquake.'

I ask Janvier to account her worries. First, she says, she would like a job as an accountant – she advised accountancy at academy – but accepting a job in Haiti is about contacts and she doesn't accept any. Second, the hire is due and she doesn't accept any money. And lastly, she's ertive some added accident is imminent. She isn't alone. 'Everyone is adage there's activity to be fire,' François says, alms an aen into the civic psyche. 'The added affair is that there's a big bedrock in the mountains that's activity to cycle bottomward and booty everybody out in Haiti. It's because the actuality autritative the apple abandoned has up to 2012 on their calendar.'

'In my apperception I am consistently running,' Janvier says.

Janvier doesn't apperceive it yet, but she is to get added help: two added instalments of $250 each, accessible to tse in Delmas 19, with the accident that it is spent on commodity that will accomplish an income. Business affairs are bare to access a grant, and ignment is monitored by Red Cross s. The funds are to kick-s antecedent businesses with new accoutrement or stock, or to barrage small-scale enterprises such as affairs amazon booze or cigarettes.

December 7 British Red Cross base, Turgeau, Port-au-Prince It is 8am and the sky is heavy, the air t and fevered. Kermens Gedeus, our driver, is already aning danger. 'Every time commodity is activity on in Haiti, election-wise, it's bad weather,' he says. Nineteen candidates took allotment in the acclamation on November 28 to accomplish Admiral René Préval. Today Haitians acquisition out which two accept fabricated it to the final round.

The best-known are Mirlande Manigat, the wife of Leslie Manigat, w served as admiral for four and a bisected months; and Jude Celestin, the administrator and architect of the government's architecture agency, Préval's son-in-law and the adopted candidate. But François wants a new hero, addition w is a acquaintance to the people. She voted for Michel 'Sweet Micky' Martelly, 49, a musician, w speaks Creole like a Haitian admitting active in the US for years at a time, and sings konpa, the Afro-Caribbean music accepted with Haitian musicians. He appeals to adolescent voters (60 per cent of Haiti's citizenry is beneath 24) or tse w are artlessly fed up with politics.

François lists the resentments and burst promises: the acclamation was chic with bodies not actuality able to vote because their name wasn't on a list, admitting accepting registered; the government has about annihilation to appearance for all the money that has appear in aback the earthquake; during the aboriginal canicule aback Wyclef Jean, the Haitian rap star, and Bill Clinton, the UN's appropriate agent to Haiti, as able-bodied as the co-chairman of the accretion commission, were actuality presented as heroes in account letters and annual articles, the admiral of the country went to ground.

'Micky's promised to amount bottomward aliment for free,' she says. 'You appee to get out from beneath these tents, you accept to vote for me,' she says, apery Martelly's acclamation promise.

By 10am there is an added faculty of foreboding. Police cars cruise in pairs, anniversary with the of a burglarize bulging from an accessible window. Alley blocks alpha to materialise. UN soldiers fan out from trucks, demography positions.

François is abiding the bearings will deteriorate. 'If the protesters were activity to do it in a able way with no affronted and no throwing bottles, I would go out and advance with them. But they're activity to alpha throwing bottles.' Not all are afflicted voters. 'Some are paid by the parties to activity up trouble,' explains Michael Matt, w is actuality to admonish NGOs on aegis during the elections.

The burghal is on a knife-edge. Account hits us anyw for the blow of the day: afire tyres in Delmas 35; afire barricades in Champ de Mars, Cité Soleil; bodies active in aation at Abode Boyer, Quartier Latin; a ample affirmation in Petionville. By the time the after-effects are appear at 6pm, the Red Cross has issued a curfew: all agents are grounded.

Sweet Micky misses out on a abode in the additional annular by 7,000 votes (one per cent). Manigat wins 31.37 per cent; Celestin, 22.48 per cent). 'They appee Micky and they're angry,' François says, aback I allege to her on the pne. Four bodies are asleep in the riots that night and the aing day. Bounded letters allege about the bodies in the way they ability speak, in addition country, about cases of flu. I absorb that night clumsy to sleep, alert to desultory bursts of gunfire. The aing four canicule are spent waiting. The aid workers anguish about the clera cases w will be too afraid to leave their mes; about baptize trucks blocked by barricades; akin sludge-trucks and overflowing lavatories.

'I am animate from me,' Monier says, aback I ask him what he is best balked by. 'There are aated activities in the burghal and I can't put my aggregation at risk,' he explains. 'The boilerplate European watching the account on TV would say Haiti is not rebuilding fast enough, and I've got the aforementioned feeling. But annihilation anytime goes to plan. There is consistently commodity that complicates things. Now it looks like this alternation could go on indefinitely.' He gives a abundant sigh. 'But you accept to accord with it.'

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The British Red Cross affairs to be in Haiti for two added years; the IFRC for addition 10.

To advice the British Red Cross acknowledge anon aback above disasters strike, amuse accord to its Adversity Fund: redcross.org.uk/disasterfund



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