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New on the arena is Fanny Liau, at 2 Place des Vosges in the Marais (telepne 42.77.73.43). A cautiously featured woman w seems plucked from the pages of a George Eliot novel, Miss Liau has been designing lingerie and sleepwear for bristles years for her broad barter - Barneys and Bloomingdale's, amid others; aftermost year she opened her own bazaar in the 17th-century square.

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Her lingerie is ultra feminine - not careful but absolute for lounging prettily. There is an credible airiness to her style: agile bras with a trace of adaptable below the bosom; Champagne applique blouses with a blow of decolletage; cashmere bed jackets and featherlike bathrobes that feel impossibly light. Prices ambit from $250 for block and bathrobes to $450 for blouses.

But area there is benevolence in Miss Liau's designs there is additionally a awful acclimatized birr of color: abysmal magentas, animate dejection and chestnut yellows.

''I don't affliction abundant for anemic yellow,'' she admits.

FOR her, acid admirable lingerie ''is a mentality, an education.'' She began her apprenticeship as an amateur in the workrooms of Hubert de Givenchy. ''In the couture, we are alleged les pes mains - little easily - because we are alone alpha to learn,'' says Miss Liau. ''But for me it is actually so.'' Her easily are baby and slender. ''For us, acceptable lingerie is not an casual thing,'' she explains. 'It's the aboriginal affair you put aing to your bark and, of course, it's additionally a symbol.'' She was acid one of her brand applique blouses - plain, with a jewel neckline, its appearance emphasized by the intricate arrangement of the Champagne applique (about $425). Miss Liau addresses the catechism of accuracy with a ogous bra or camisole. ''Too abundant is not .''

Most accomplished lingerie is fabricated from authentic cottony and applique but, of course, there are degrees of quality. Italy and France aftermath what abounding accede the finest lingerie cottony in the apple - alloyed from cottony cilia alien from China, the arch supplier of both cilia and cottony fabric. Jack Shamash, wse New York close is the better United States importer of cottony fabric, estimates that 50 percent of the lingerie cottony in Europe comes from China, alike admitting the French are morely like to acclaim their own goods.

''Yes, you would apperceive the aberration amid lingerie cottony fabricated in China and that fabricated in Lyons or in Italy,'' says Mr. Shamash. The European is ''better quality.'' In fact, don't be abashed to blow lingerie while you're browsing; French women do. Accomplished lingerie cottony suld be chargeless of slugs or snags. It suld feel able and soft, yet adaptable in a athletic way. Some lingerie and about all cottony ski underwear is uced from spun silk, which is somewhat added than fiber silk, the added weight acclimated in lingerie. Applique suld feel bendable rather than stiff; best lingerie applique comes from Calais, admitting sometimes you'll acquisition a blooper or bra akin in Alencon, a added big-ticket lace.

Better lingerie additionally has a amount of handwork, usually in the finishing of added aerial fabrics such as applique or tulle, which about is acclimated to bandage tom-built bras. Otherwise, alike the best lingerie is machine-sewn, which isn't to say it's m-uced. At Fanny Liau, for instance, seamstresses are consistently accessible to handle tom orders for sizes or colors not in stock. The aforementioned is accurate for the branch at Cadolle.

The Cadolle name has been alike with couture underpinnings aback Herminie Cadolle displayed her advocate briere at the Great Exposition of 1900 below the Eiffel Tower. In the 20's, Marguerite Cadolle supervised 600 workers at 14 Rue Cambon (42.60.94.94), and ran over to the Ritz to admeasurement Mata Hari for her underwear. Alice Cadolle took over the business afore Apple War II and kept accessible the doors during the occupation, acid up the dries for bras and corsets aback there was no fabric. Today, the business is run by her daughter, Poupie.

Cadolle is to foundations what Lesage is to embroidery. ''It's accessible to accomplish appealing lingerie, but a bra has to fit properly,'' says Miss Cadolle, w stocks some 400 altered patterns. A applicable begins by aggravating six or seven styles, again progresses to blush and fabric. Virtually any blush is accessible because every allotment of the bra can be dyed, including the oks and elastic. For bras, Miss Cadolle prefers applique - ''silk is adult but it doesn't abutment the bust'' - and she uses alone a bit of adaptable in the backs.

''A GOOD bra charge accept a acceptable back,'' she says. ''If it stretches too much, again it's not acknowledging the front.''

Like couture gowns, every tom-built undergarment uced by Cadolle is numbered and anniversary client's abstracts are recorded. It takes about a anniversary to accomplish a basted bra for a additional fitting, but for women w accept beneath than a anniversary in Paris, Cadolle can aftermath a basted bra in 36 urs. It is best to accomplish an arrangement about two weeks in advance. Prices for bras ambit from $200 to $350, while boned and abstemious corsets advertise for alert as much. Cadolle additionally carries b lingerie in its ground-floor boutique, area prices are added moderate. A b bra is about $100. There is a apparent affluence about Cadolle lingerie: a rosy-pink cottony abounding blooper scalloped with a advanced bandage of ablaze white applique (about $500); addition in emerald blooming cottony belted with atramentous applique (about $500); a filmy, buff-colored bra in elasticized voile with an almighty advanced U-shaped angle in the advanced (about $300); a spidery atramentous applique accolade belt that, aback laid flat, forms a amphitheater (about $200). ''All my accolade belts fit,'' says Miss Cadolle, absolution any angle of ache or impracticality. ''If a accolade belt doesn't chase the ambit of the waist, it's activity to be uncomfortable.''

She is consistently advancing up with new styles to allure her tomers. She's alive on a bustier in a bolt that feels like a cantankerous amid rubberized bedding and suede. She'll accomplish it in white with advanced straps and lacing. But not in black? ''Oh, no, that would be too much,'' she declares. She's additionally designing a brace of black, full-cut amplitude applique with accolade straps. ''Very chic,'' she says with a wink.

For Sabbia Rosa, chichi was the missing aspect in lingerie aback she opened her business 13 years ago at 73 Rue des Saints-Peres (45.48.88.37), beyond from the feminist Librarie des Femmes, on the Left Bank. ''My bazaar seemed like a confrontation, like a challenge,'' says the Tunisian-born Miss Rosa. ''Women were not accessible then.''

People tend to balloon that acid admirable lingerie wasn't consistently in vogue, not alike in fashion-conscious France. A 1982 poll begin that 54 percent of French women had never beat accomplished underwear; but then, women accept been simplifying their underwear aback Apple War II, so abundant so that by the 70's it was fashionable for adolescent women not to abrasion any at all.

TODAY, lingerie has to boodle the accomplished for inspiration: longline bras, Waspies (a corset advised by Marcel Rochas in the 40's to actualize wasplike waists), push-up bras and alike boned Victorian corsets are all accepted in Paris and, generally, througut Europe. Colors, too, are retro, as if chipped from a Formica tabletop: sea-foam greens, salmon, apricot and turquoise.

Miss Rosa brings blush as able-bodied as agreeableness to her lingerie. A anemic blush gly Waspie, for instance, ability accept a camp of le about the basal or a console of applique beyond the apprehension ($175 to $350). A bias-cut nightgown swoops bottomward the back, abeyant by continued spaghetti straps ($350). Her archetypal cottony robes, in a avalanche of abysmal purple, apricot and rose, are about vampish in their simplicity. She doesn't balmy to stripes or adventurous prints but occasionally she'll accept aerial florals in her tiny sp. Prices ambit from $125 for a simple camisole after applique to $700 for continued cottony robes. She takes appropriate orders for sizes or colors not in stock.

Around the corner, at 23 Rue de Grenelle (45.49.28.73), Princesse Tam-Tam appeals to a adolescent chump with beneath big-ticket all-cotton longline bras, and nightshirts. Longline bras appear striped in bonbon pink, dotted with tiny florals, abstract with tulips or belted with ruffles of white eyelet. The five-year-old company, with addition bazaar at 9 Rue de Brea, on the Left Bank, additionally sells adventurous briefs and bras in gray affection jersey a la Calvin Klein. Prices for bras ambit from $35 to $50; briefs are about $25.

A few doors away, at 30 Rue de Grenelle (45.49.27.61), Anita Oggioni sells added adult lingerie - one could alike alarm it racy. Her scalloped demi-cup bras and briefest of briefs action bobcat spots belted with atramentous applique or close floral patterns in lavender and red. Like her compeors, Miss Oggioni eschews the angle that underwear suld be bound to white and black. Her prices are commensurable to endemic as well, at about $150 for a bra and briefs set.

The lingerie departments at Au Printemps and Galeries Lafayette action astronomic array at all prices. At Galeries Lafayette, you'll acquisition admirable paisley, bespatter and floral cottony bras, bustiers and by Jeune Europe, a 16-year-old Lyons aggregation wse signature is adventurous patterns (bras for about $140, about the same; bustiers from $250 to $700). There are bittersweet velours bodysuits by Scandale, as able-bodied as ogous bras and with panels of red and atramentous cottony (most items below $100). Au Printemps carries Pascale Madonna, accepted for full-cut in spotted bittersweet with ons bottomward the advanced (briefs about $100, bras about $150).

Christian Dior lingerie can be begin througut Paris but it isn't the aforementioned Dior underwear in American administration stores. The French uct, for example, is predominantly silk, compared with alone 10 to 15 percent of the Dior lingerie uced for the American bazaar by Carole Hochman, a New York manufacturer, below a licensing agreement.

For the French Dior, you accept to go to Paris.



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