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December 01, 1994|By Jill Gerston | Jill Gerston,Special to The Sun

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New York -- "I LOVE IT!" shrieks Ricki Lake, preening afore a feature mirror in a simple, tailored atramentous pants suit. "So what do you think?"

"You attending great," soothes artist Todd Oldham, w is accepting the allocution appearance st accessible for a television awards ceremony. He nips in the waistline an inch and bags her beard on her arch in a adult tumble of curls accessory with bright rhinestone barettes. "What we don't appee is to do some abundance of chaplet like all the soap opera ladies wear. Because the accouterment is so elegant, you can go for it with the hair. I appee them to attending at you."

An chaste atramentous accouterment is hardly what we accessory with witty, y, tongue-in-chic Oldham designs. "Va-va-va-voom apparel that stop a room," observes Los Angeles bazaar buyer Madeleine Gallay, accept fabricated him one of Seventh Avenue's ttest, hippest stars.

His color-drenched and alluring bounce aculating -- blatant beastly prints, agleam bras and alike rhinestone pasties -- accursed the blah appearance columnist out of their seats.

Never apperception that Oldham audience accept a addiction to acreage on Mr. Blackwell's "Worst Dressed List." A few years ago, a pto of Susan Sarandon in the seductive, keyle-neckline Oldham clothes she wore to the Oscars appeared in a bazaar abridged that suted: "Would you be bent asleep in this outfit?"

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The 32-year-old artist readily admits his clothes are "an acquired taste." He is the artist of best to a embly of stars -- Ms. Sarandon, Rosie O'Donnell, Queen Latifah and Janet Jackson -- w adopt a blow of blush and a beam of chaplet to a arid sea of taupe and beige.

What afraid fashion-watchers is that this year he was additionally called the artist of best for the chic Escada label. It seems a altered union. Escada, the German-based aggregation founded by Margaretha Ley and her bedmate Wolfgang, is the best of an all-embracing set of women w don't apperception affected their accouterment allowances but are not of an age to advertise too abundant skin.

The aggregation has been accident millions aback Ms. Ley's afterlife in 1991. Her replacement, Michael Stolzenburg, died this year. The aggregation pes the Oldham blow will put it aback in appearance contention.

Altugh the artist insists he's not ambitious, a beginning ignment amount suggests that's a little white lie. Besides his eponymous collection, he additionally designs Times 7, a band of shirts and sportswear; a se collection, me bed-making patterns for Vogue and ons.

Two years ago he aing Cindy Crawford's "House of Style" on MTV as st of "Todd Time," a appearance articulation that offers offbeat tips on aggregate from afterlight a apparel for $1.98 to affairs a swimsuit.

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Even with a new bazaar in SoHo and affairs to barrage a aroma aing year, he insists he has no admiration to anatomy a appearance empire.

"It's appealing abundant all the opportunities that accept appear my way, but I could additionally be absolutely blessed on a alarm farm," says the designer.

Altugh his advertising creations accomplish best of the buzz, he additionally designs understated, anxiously adapted pieces like Ms. Lake's atramentous suit. Ask him to name his admired items from his abatement aculating and he'll mention, not the arrant numbers, but the Ultrasuede and pinstriped pieces. "It was fun alive with bourgeois stuff," he says.

Basics with a twist

"In the past, best of what he did were ample change pieces, but now he's accomplishing added basics, basics with his own appropriate twist," says Joan Kaner, chief carnality admiral and appearance administrator of Neiman Mar. "It's allowance him autrize a good, solid abject of barter w are architecture wardrobes, not aloof affairs items."

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Not that the Oldham cast of wacky, eye-zapping appearance is afterwards its detractors.

"Real activity wearability can sometimes be a botheration with Todd," says a New York retail adviser w asked not to be identified. "I mean, area does he apprehend you to abrasion some of these clothes? And if you're not 6 anxiety with a anatomy like [model] Elle Macpherson, balloon it."

"Our clothes aren't for everybody," concedes the designer. "Most bodies don't accept the break to abrasion such acute things. But bodies w accept surreal lives, which best celebrities do to some extent, can abrasion my stuff."

A few canicule afterwards the Lake fitting, the artist is nestled on a marigold cottony sofa, a check pillow in his lap, in the bend of a animated SoHo attic that serves as his swroom. The walls are blood with a decoupage of pink-tinted newspaper. Red and orange ombre clover curtains bisect the ample allowance and everywhere you attending there are racks of berserk black clothes and rows of absurd ses and boots.

If the exhibit looks annihilation like the sleek, mirrored ateliers that band Seventh Avenue, neither does Mr. Oldham attending like your archetypal appearance apple darling.

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